Monday, December 21, 2009

My Christmas Extravaganza!!! **(in Vietnam)

It’s Christmastime in old Vietnam. What does this mean? It means that I’ve lost my mind and started bootlegging eggnog and decorating inanimate household objects as if they are evergreen trees.


About a week ago I was feeling rather scrooge-like about the Christmas season. Sure, I sent Christmas cards (yours’ should arrive any day), but overall I was being Blue-Christmasy. Then I woke up one morning and it dawned on me that the only way I could feel happy about Christmas was to throw a big old American Christmas party. (I don’t know how these ideas come over me...)

I called 5 of my closest Vietnamese teacher friends and told them they were invited to Madeline’s Christmas Extravaganza!!!

When that invitation seemed to cause some confusion, I said "I'm cookin' food. Wanna come?" They all said yes and asked if I would be cooking Vietnamese or Western food. When I said Western they told me that they had never eaten Western food and they couldn’t wait to try it.

And with that I suddenly became responsible for an entire Hemisphere’s culinary reputation.

Backstory: I grew up with a mother who could cook really well, which meant I never learned to cook myself. Why would I try to make dinner when hers’ would taste so much better? I then went to college and lived in New York, where most of my meals consisted of Alan’s salads from the deli across the street and Lean Cuisines from the freezer. I was busy. And lazy...

Then I moved to Vietnam, and suddenly wanting to eat meant needing to cook. What an archaic idea.

The first month in Hai Duong I just ate a lot of noodles. I lost weight, which would have been fantastic if I wasn’t also lightheaded and involuntarily shaking all the time. Finally, pale and hungry, I enlisted the help of Mrs. Thu. She took me to the market and helped me buy a chicken... A whole chicken. With feet. And a head. Then she took me back home and tried to leave....“But I don’t know what to do with it!!” I blurted out desperately, holding up the plastic bag, now dripping with blood.

“Oh. Did your mother always butcher the chicken for you in America?” She asked.

I didn’t have the heart to tell her, “No, Purdue did,” so I just said “Yes.”

Mrs. Thu came to my room and somehow managed to use my fruit knife to butcher the entire chicken. She’s an amazing woman. Then she left and I started to cry.

Since then, things have definitely improved. 3 weeks ago I figured out how to hard boil eggs. It gave me a feeling I imagine is akin to how the cavemen must’ve felt upon discovering the wheel: pure enlightenment, but also slight stupidity that it took so long. I now eat an average of 3 hard boiled eggs a day, sans yolks.

I’ve also learned some other valuable lessons in the kitchen. Like did you know that when you boil a chicken, the water becomes chicken broth? And chicken broth can help you make anything! And if you put tomatoes in hot water for just a few seconds, when you pull them out you can easily remove their skin. Online it says this is called “blanching.” Also, if you are using garlic, you can press the clove under a large knife and it breaks the inside and makes it very easy to “mince.” (That’s another word I found online.) Lastly, I have discovered that using the appropriate knife is imperative--and fun! Knives are very cheap here. You just pick them out of the knife bin at the market and someone wraps them in newspaper and sends you on your way. I’ve taken to buying knives like I’ve taken to buying jeans: obsessively.

I’ve also taken a liking to tofu. A stick of tofu, about the size of a stick of butter, costs 1,000 Dong--less than $0.06. At first, I was adverse to tofu. As a daughter in a family of deer hunters, the prospect of eating tofu had always made me feel like I would bring shame upon my father’s house. I had similar feelings before I started eating Sushi. I would take one look at the yellowtail sashimi and hear Dad’s voice saying, “Where I come from, we call that bait.” I have since moved passed these feelings.

A testament to how much my culinary experience has improved in Vietnam can be seen in that I now LOVE going to the open air market. It’s about 2 Km away, and I ride my bike there at least twice a week. I have certain ladies who I always buy from, and I love how happy they look each time I arrive. This may be because they know they can charge me twice as much as they do anyone else, but I like to think they just think I’m pretty. They’ve also started throwing in freebies--an extra tomato here, some lemon leaves there. And as I walk through the market, carefully inspecting the produce as if I actually have any clue what to look for, I can hear all of my most vital stats buzzing through the air in Vietnamese:

“American.” “23.” “Teacher.” “Not married.”

There is also always a great deal of slapping. I used to think people were mad at me; now I know that the aggressive whacking is just their way of saying, “Good to see ya again, White girl!”


(Me at the chicken counter with some students)

Back to the Christmas party: I decked out the apartment in tinsel and wrapped small gifts for all the ladies. I also played Christmas music and bought snow themed plates and bowls. My attempt at eggnog failed, but I did buy wine. I started drinking at 3, when I burnt the first round of onions. The meal was simple: garlic bread, buttered green beans, and spaghetti with a tomato, mushroom, and chicken sauce. Kind of Chicken Marsala-ish. The ladies arrived, said my flat looked clean “for me,” and sat down for the meal. The one unavoidably Vietnamese aspect of the meal was that we sat on the floor. I don’t have a table, and they’re used to sitting on the floor anyway, so we went with it. I lit candles, too, kind of like an advent wreath. However, unlike my mother, I didn’t make everyone sing “O Come, O Come Emmanuel.” I thought that would be just a bit too much.

Everyone loved the food, which I think surprised them as much as it did me. They again asserted that Vietnam would make a good wife out of me yet. Well, one can only hope. I didn’t come all this way for nothing.

After the meal, they helped me clean up and wash the dishes. They also asked if I’ve been missing America because of Christmas, to which I gave a resounding, “Yes.”

I really have been. A lot. Knowing that there is a big, fluffy blizzard at home has made me pine for the East Coast even more. This is made easier only by the fact that I feel so blessed to have the teachers I work with as friends. The day before the dinner, I sent Mrs. Thanh, who is 8 months pregnant, a text message reminding her that the party started at 5pm. She wrote back, “It will be a very special dinner in my life.” That put on a lot of pressure, but I also found it to be something of an honor. It was a very special dinner for me as well.





Oh, and this is Minh. Huyen's daughter, and the guest of honor.

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Geckos, and lobsters, and Maddie--Oh my.

This past weekend I escaped the underwear-eating geckos of my apartment and headed South for my mid-year Fulbright seminar in Nha Trang.

That's right. There are underwear-eating geckos in my apartment.

It's a glamorous life.

I wasn't going to write about the miscreant reptiles, believing the subject pushes even my insensitive-to-overshare boundaries. I also didn't want to give the little shits the satisfaction of being blogged about.

Obviously my self-control lost out to my desire to amuse, so here I am, unable to contain myself, giving TMI about the lizards with a thing for my Victoria's Secret collection.

About three weeks ago I did my laundry, only to find upon unloading that some of my underwear was, well, holey. "Weird," I thought. I looked through my washing machine, which doubles as my hamper, for anything that could have wrought such damage upon my unmentionables. At the bottom of the washing machine I found a few loose screws that had been in my jeans pocket from the Habitat project. "Ah," I thought. "They got caught in my underwear during the spin cycle." That's it. Mystery solved. Still weird...but mystery solved.

The next week I did more laundry, and encountered the same problem. Again I looked into the bottom of my washer/hamper, and this time I noticed a bolt that was a little loose. More far fetched than the screws, but I thought it was possible that the bolt was the real culprit.

Meanwhile, the weather had gotten colder in North Vietnam, and the neighborhood geckos had begun to retreat indoors. I had seen only a few in my flat, but their strong presence was verified by the recent increase in gecko-poop, which--although small--is pretty gross.

Finally, a little over a week ago, I went to pull a shirt out of my washer/hamper, and saw that a pair of my underwear was already holey, pre-washing. It took about five seconds to put the holey underwear together with the nearby gecko poop laced with pink lace.

I lost it. There was yelling and cursing and the throwing of pots and pans. It was quite a scene--I just wish someone had seen it. I have since started using a new, sealed laundry bag. I have not been able to get rid of the geckos, and they are still pooping a lot, but at least my underwear is intact.

All of that being said, it's not surprising that I was eager to escape my flat and go to Vietnam's version of paradise: Nha Trang. I spent two days at Nha Trang University for my mid-year seminar, and spent the rest of my time on the beach, in a boat, or with Buddha. It was really beautiful...see pictures. You'll also see a picture of "Why Not Bar"--the closest thing to Bergen County this side of the Hudson.

Oh--and we ate fresh lobsters on the beach.








Monday, December 7, 2009

Home-town Visits and Mystery Meat

Every week I get some sort of invitation to go spend a day at a student’s home with their families. I like doing this, really I do. That being said, these days always have the potential to turn into a hostage situation. The day begins around 6:30am, and by the 10am lunchtime everyone’s explicit hope that I will stay for dinner...stay the night...stay forever... has been made perfectly clear. In order to avoid all the awkward, “Please let me go home now” conversations, I’ve become very skilled at having plans mandating I leave by 2pm. This still leaves plenty of time for tea, non-verbal communication with parents (me smiling, them speaking Vietnamese), meeting the adorable and ancient grandparents, a big lunch, and, of course, the requisite afternoon nap.

This past Saturday, I found myself at Ha’s house. Ha lives on a small fish farm about an 1 1/2 hours away from Hai Duong.We went via bus and took possibly the worst road in Vietnam, but that’s another story. Once we arrived, Ha showed me around her house. It was a small cinder block home surrounded by a star-fruit tree orchard and 3 man made fishing ponds.

Ha asked if I like fishing. “Does the pope like to pray!?” I didn’t say. “Of course I like fishing.” I said. Within seconds I was given a stool and a bamboo fishing rod, and someone found a snail for me to use as bait. I was getting excited. I legitimately like fishing, and even more than fishing I like catching. I thought fishing on this fish farm would be like shooting fish in a barrel, like pickin’ green beans. Perfect. The family came out to watch me---the American woman---fish. I cast and began to wait.

Nothing.

Everyone seemed perplexed that the fish weren’t jumping out of the water to lay at my converse-clad feet. Even the father cleaning the freshly killed chicken in the water a few feet away seemed surprised. Time passed. Ha and her small cousins left and came back with a bucket full of powder that looked like saw dust but was, in fact, pig food. They started throwing the pig food towards where my line entered the water. For the fish with a more discerning palate??

Still nothing. I started having flashbacks to many a first day of trout season as a kid, sitting by Skippack creek impatiently reeling in and recasting as my dad said things like, “It’s called fishing, not catching, Mad.”


Still Nothing. Now Ha went over to where her father was cleaning the intestines of the chicken, took some unidentified chicken organ, and put it on my hook. For the more carnivorous fish??


Still nothing. About an hour passed and my crowd had lost interest. Ha decided it was time for me to throw in the towel, and I had to agree. She blamed the weather, which I thought was very sweet of her. We ate a fish-less lunch, took a great nap, and met her new litter of piglets. I can’t believe I forgot my camera--they were so cute.

The next day, Sunday, I had promised my student Hoa that I would go to her house about 1/2 hour from Hai Duong. Its always good to find an activity on these hometown days, so I asked Hoa if there was anywhere in her town to buy jeans. Remember my first terrifying/hysterical shopping fiasco? Well, I’ve since come to love shopping for jeans in Vietnam. Seriously. Its an addiction. They only cost about $6-10 dollars and they all have designer labels. My newest pair are "Dior." They're also sized by the waist, which I love, and since everyone here is short, they can alter them on the spot for no additional charge. I even got brave and bought a pair of skinny jeans with Hoa. They sort of look like they’ve been painted on, but in a not-totally-gross way.

After shopping, Hoa and I made the usual rounds through the village as she demonstrated her newly acquired motorbike driving skills. I met some local babies, saw some local water buffaloes, and had tea with some local Party members...par for the course. Hoa’s boyfriend, with whom she is madly and adorably in love, and he back with her, was making a hot pot lunch. Basically this is a boiling pot of broth brought right out to where you sit and eat. The ingredients for the soup-like dish are all raw, and you put them in to cook little by little as you eat. As I sat down for lunch, I looked at the raw ingredients and saw parts of a chicken that I didn’t even know existed. I made the decision to just ignore them. At least until they were cooked and Hoa’s boyfriend gave me the chicken heart and brain out of respect. What do you do to that??? You eat them. That’s what. Honestly it wasn’t as gross as I thought it would be. They just tasted "organny."

About halfway through lunch, Hoa’s aunt came over with plates of unidentifiable leftovers from her family’s lunch to share with us. There was a small exchange between Hoa and her parents before Hoa said to me, “It’s dog. You do not want, right?”
My face must have spoken volumes because before I could even utter a sound something erupted between Hoa and her family and the plates of dog meat were swiftly removed from my view.

I have seen the dog restaurants. I have even seen the dog parts for sale at the market. But suffice to say that being offered dog already on a plate in front of me brought my cross-cultural experience to a new level. Don't say I'm not trying, Vietnam. I really am.

I didn’t get any pictures of my time with Ha and Hoa, but I did take this picture of my dinner at my boss Mrs. Thu’s house on Sunday night. It was a great, traditional Vietnamese meal.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Thanksgiving Weekend in the Mountains

For the last 10 years of my life, I have spent every Thanksgiving weekend with my father in Huntingdon County, PA at our cabin in the mountains, eagerly awaiting the first day of rifle season. Therefore, although unarmed and in Vietnam, it was only fitting that I spent last weekend in Sa Pa in the Tolkinese Alps, breathin’ the good air and drinkin’ the good drink.

This was my second time in Sa Pa, having already been there with Scott about a month ago. As luck would have it, I’ll actually be going back again when my parents come after Christmas. No complaints. I love this place.

When you arrive in Sa Pa, you can feel the distinct quality of altitude. You know what I mean--the air feels crisper, the sky looks cleaner, and you just feel so damn good to be a little bit closer to God’s big heaven than you were the day before. It’s amazing to me that the feeling of a mountain town can transcend continents, but you get that in Sa Pa.

Sa Pa is perhaps best known as the hub of the Ethnic tribal people who live in the North of Vietnam. The most dominant groups are the Red Dao and Black Hmong, but there are many others. I could try to go on about them, but truth be told I’m no expert and you’re better off consulting Wikipedia. What I will tell you is they are a fascinating and beautiful group of people. They are exotic, earthy, and unmistakably aggressive when it comes to selling their wares.

Our second day in Sa Pa, we had arranged for a 6 hour hike through the mountains and a few local villages. Our guide was a tiny 24 year old woman named SuMay who now lives in Sa Pa town, but hails from one of the Red Dao villages. From the beginning I just really liked her. SuMay only went to school through the US equivalent of 8th grade and has never taken an English class. She has learned complete conversational English just from listening to tourists over the past 5 years. Truthfully she must be a genius. She was dressed in traditional clothing, with the exception of the traditional Red Dao kerchief or headdress. She wore a little bit of make-up and had a dusting of faint freckles over her nose. She also had a sweet grin and a black cavity in one of her front teeth.

We started the trek, and taking it all in, I ended up somewhat apart from the group. This landed me next to SuMay. As has become my pseudo-Vietnamese habit, I asked her early on about her husband and children. Seeing as she is a 24 year old Ethnic woman, I was sure that she had them. She told me she has a little girl--2 years old--then skipped a beat before saying she’s been divorced for 6 months. She is the first woman here--either Vietnamese or Ethnic--who I’ve met who's had a divorce. I was surprised, but just kept the conversation going. Eventually she circled back to her ex-husband and explained how he was an abusive alcoholic who refused to work, stole her money, and just completely became a different person after they were married. She said, with the same awestruck regret of a woman anywhere who finds a man is not who she thought he was, “I just can’t believe I was with him. I can’t believe it happened.”

As I listened and said all the seemingly cliche but true things we women tell each other-- "You had to for your daughter.” “You’re so strong.” “It’s not your fault.” “That is amazing you stood up for yourself.”--I realized that she probably hadn’t heard those things very much, if at all. Turns out that many people in her village no longer speak to her and constantly talk about her behind her back. She’s not looking for another husband now, but she doesn’t know if with a daughter she could ever find another man in Vietnam. I think it would be so easy for her to feel hopeless and lost, but she didn’t give that sense at all. She seems angry, and rightfully so, but resolved and self-possessed.

The way she talked about her daughter, you could just tell how much she loves that little girl. A lot of the women in the mountains carry their babies in packs on their backs. SuMay said she always straps her daughter to her front so she can look at her. My mom once told me she did the same thing for us when we were babies.

I’ve been thinking about SuMay a lot since last weekend. What is next for her? What choices does she have? She has a childhood friend who married a Western man and now lives in California. You get the feeling from SuMay that she sees that as a chance out for her as well. I often recoil at the idea of an American man showing up here and taking a Vietnamese woman home with him because it doesn’t always happen under the best of circumstances, to say the least. Still, truth be told, if I were SuMay I think I would see that as my best shot, too.

After our trek, we told the hotel manager how wonderful SuMay was, and he told us that he’s planning to help her start her own guide business. I hope that happens.

Ironically enough, the night before this trek, 5 of us ambitious and independent American women sat in our hotel room and--somewhat obnoxiously in hindsight--talked about the role of women in Vietnam. We’ve all had different challenges when it comes to adjusting to our own gender roles in our particular situations. Some have had it harder than others, but all of us agree we’re looked at differently than we’ve ever been before. Things aren’t perfect for women in America, but it definitely feels like a big step back here. But then, you meet a woman like SuMay, or some of the very intelligent and progressive women I work with, and you see that the future here is going to change. I hope its just a matter of time.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Happy Thanksgiving.

Suffice it to say I have a lot to be thankful for this year. I was going to create a Thanksgiving slide show and then find a way to upload it onto the blog.

But then that got confusing....I couldn't even figure out how to make a collage.

So instead of a flashy slide-show playing some sappy country song about home and family, please enjoy some pictures of just a few of the people and things that I am so thankful to have in my life, in no particular order. Except for the first one. Because those people are the best.
I am Thankful for.....
Family.

Emily/Emily and Me at the HAIR opening/Emily's Hair in this picture
Emily Watkins/Wine/Good food
Eggs Benedict/PUKU Wireless Cafe in Hanoi
Sofia/Hayley/Burgers
Students who make it all worth it.
French Restaurants/Medium Rare Steaks.
Barack Obama's Inauguration.
Skype/Family/My MacBook
Rising Dragon Hotel/ Fulbrighters
New York Magazine/New York Friends who Send me NY Magazine/ New York.
Mia/Awesome friends in the North of Vietnam
Scott/People who deal with me thousands of miles away
Lattes/Hearts
My Dad/Elk Mountain
Fordham Friends/Going Away Parties/Emily's Hostess Abilities
Cece.
The McCann Family/Champagne/That Subway Sub on the Screen in the back.
My Mom and Dad/The quality of my gene pool
Friends/DJ Reynolds
Emma/Musical theater/Emma in Musical theater
Emma/Livi
My Mom/My Sasha/Where I get my brains
Dad/my Aunt Virgie/long distance phone calls with my Aunt Virgie.
Central Park/Ted Corbitt 15K/Snow/Uncle Chris and Marty: The Best Running Buddies Ever
My Dad/the Woods/Blaze Orange Being the New Pink
Alix/Dan/Pennsylvania
The Gibble Sisters/Girls Weekend in NY
Momom/Sasha/Adorable Grandparents
Jonny/Tara/People who religiously read my blog
Alix/Dan/People who are always there for me via G-chat
Lady/Lady being in America and away from Chopsticks.
America. 'Nuff said.